Month: June 2019

My guide book suggested I visit some of the Cathar castles on the way south. So set off for a village called Tuchman. Had to up and down several passes to get to it in a wide expansive valley. This is were Fitou wine comes from. All the shops were shut. Boooooo. The cahteau I was after wa called Aguilar. It’s up a very badly maintained lane with a ruined castle at the top. I’d give it a miss.

Continuing SE reached the outskirts of Perpignan but only just touched it before heading NW towards Arles sur Tech. The reason being that there was an interesting gorge recommended called gorges de la Fou.    It was closed. As it was getting too hot and only going into Perpignan seemed the only option I called it a day at a local camp site.

Off to the seaside tomorrow.

I Left Gaillac around 9ish to try and beat the heat on my way over to carcassonne. It was some two hours of a drive. After Mezamet which was a bugger to get through due to the market, went up my first mountain pass of the trip. Ten miles in total to get to the top.

I managed to find a parking spot in Carcassonne new town by the old tramway station and made my way into town. Narrow streets cross crossing each other around a busy market square. Everything being sold fruit,veg, meat etc. Lots of places to sit down and have a drink with friends.

To be honest I took one look at the citadel and decided there’s just no way I’m going up there in this heat. Mid 30s by this stage. So had lunch by the side of the canal de media and picked my spot for the evening. After yesterday I did not want it to be too late to get a site for the evening.

Id read in my guide book about some castles further south so set off towards them following a dried out river to a small village called Lagrasse. Although small all the restaurants were busy for lunch. Awning up today.

Currently 34 C in Gaillac, 41 predicted Saturday and my fridge has finally gone belly up!!!!!!!

First stop today was Castres to see the Goya museum. Don’t go. They had one Goya panting and it was very early Goya. I don’t know what went wrong there but not impressed. The town its self is quite nice with a beautiful town square with market and an old town by the river.

So the second planned stop was Albi with its gothic cathedral and the Toulouse Lautrec exhibition in the Palace de la Bernie. The old town is remarkable with narrow cobbled streets and ancient buildings. Mega hot by this stage but walked around until the museum opened again at 2pm. Only to find it was open all day. Nobody had changed the notices. Eeeeeeeer. The exhibition was OK but I was and still not a lautrec fan but it was good to see. I think they only had his second rate paintings on display. Never mind the town was worth a visit anyway.

I had intended to visit Toulouse but had to give up on that idea due to it being late and very hot. Eventually managed to get into a site in Gaillac after a lot of searching. So a quieter day tomorrow in Carcassonne. Looking forward to 41 Deg C!!!!!!!!

I decided last night that I needed to be further East in the next couple of days then North. So I headed over to a small town called Foix. It’s a two hour drive through the valleys of the high Pyrenees. You could see the high mountains way to your right snow caped. All in a heat haze.

Its funny as you go along something suddenly hits you. Travelling along one of the Le tour touted with painting on the road I noticed yellow arrows on the road and crosses. Suddenly it dawned to me. It’s to show the route to the riders. If you came to a roundabout the arrow would point to the right with a cross on the LHS indicating do not go here. The arrows were about ten inches high and about 6 inches across. It’s obvious when you understand they can’t remember the whole days ride. Interesting to see though.

Foix was supposed to have a nice square but I was not that impressed. It did have a great castle on the hill overlooking the town.

On the place called Mirepoix which is a 13th century village built around a small square. In perfect condition with a market going on and people having lunch under the house overhangs. All different colours. I liked it.

I was going to progress further north but the temperature has just hit 37deg C so called it s day in an aire at Mirepoix. I’ve got the blinds shut on one side of the van so I’m getting some shade. And drinking lots of water. I’ll go into the village for a beer later on if it cools down.

Set off for Pau and was stopped by the police on the outskirts. Just a routine check. Driving licence, owners cert, green card. Upon which I told the policeman I don’t need a green card as we are still in the EU. He Said I need a green card. Back and forth it went,until I remembered that I had taken a copy of what I did in fact need. So after showing it to him he still insisted I needed a green card. I promised I would call my insurance company and they would send me one. Battle over.

Pau was not all that interesting so set off for the caves at Betharran. Now you’re talking. Best 15€ I have ever spent. Outside 35deg C inside the cave 13C . A winner for sure. But they are absolutely fantastic. Five layers reaching down some 800 m. Second deepest in Europe. Builder all the way through by an English speaking guild.

From here on to Lourdes but not to stop. It’s just too busy. I’d decided I’d needed to get some distance east after the cave so headed over to St Gaudens and found a municipal site just outside. Not brilliant but at least clean. Finally hit 38deg C at 5pm.

I usually get woken up at some ungodly hour by pigeons. This morning it was an out of tune cockerel. Put that on my most hated bird list as well.

Its going to be a scorcher today so loaded up with lots of water and headed north to Salies de Bearn. This is one of if not the best  villages I’ve been to in France. Beautiful squares and houses with balconies. It’s a spa town and still is. The spa looks very modern but I did not fancy a mud pack in this heat so gave it a miss. There’s a river running through the centre of the town but very low at the moment. You could see it could do serious damage during the winter.

This is a corn on the cob region and all the fields around were planted out. All the way up from St Jean and on to my next stop which was Sauveterre de Bearn. This is a small town overlooking a river with water sports going on. Canoeing etc. Mega hot.

On towards Pau stopping off at Navarreux which is a walled town on the way. The river running beside is supposed to be the best salmon river in France.

I decided not to enter Pau but will do that in the morning when it’s cooler so stopped at a municipal campsite just outside. Washing on!!!!!!!

Heat warning in place here on Wednesday at 37deg C. Not that is serious. Time to head for the hills.

Firstly called into La Bastide Clairence which is the most perfectly preserved village in the Basque area. Certainly was but as quiet as count be. Must have taken Monday off. Not a person around.

On to Cambo Les Bains which is an old spa town for treating turberculosis. Most the of the hospitals are out of town but the old town overlooks the rich valley below.

Finally today headed up the pass to St Jean Pied de Port following the river all the way up. Lots of people water rafting here. Not that much water though. St Jean is an old Pilgrimage town on the way to Santiago de Compostela in NW Spain. A long way from here!!!!!! It’s famous for its bridge over the river Nice. Did not look much to me! but there you go. There are walkers about and the attach a scallop shell to their packs. No idea why.

 

28 deg C today. Let me give you an impression of a little panting dog!!!!! Got it.

Heading for the hills. Oh!!!! They’re called the Pyrenees. First stop a little village called Ascain that had the whole bloody centre blocked off with road works. Very small village with a few shops and one hotel. Next over to Sare with its painted houses.

From there up a mountain pass to Ainhoa which must have been used for Le Tour as people’s names were painted on the road. This supposed to be one of the most beautiful Basque villages with painted houses and historic churches. Loads and loads of cyclists out and about in groups up to twenty strong. Looked hard work to me!!!!! There was a local game going on. I think it’s called Pleka but not sure. Good crowd watching the kids play though.

I was going to carry on to Campo Les Bains but bailed out at Espelette, a small town next door. This was because they had an aire in the centre. Nothing much around. What a charming place. It’s famous for it permentos hanging from all the painted houses and shops. Beautiful. There was a mega village party going on when I got there. In an open building, music, dancing and lots of eating. Good fun.

Hot day today.

The aire stopped at was right by the lake at Leon. Very good and v quiet. Going south towards Biarritz visited a beautiful small village called Hossegor. Very upmarket holiday resort with the usual expensive shops.

Onwards through Bayonne to Biarritz and low and behold managed to get a parking space without tooooo much trouble. That’s a first. What a cracking place. Three good beaches but very disappointing on the surfing front. It’s famous for surfing so where’s it all gone. Lots of nice bars and restaurants on the sea front. The beaches were quiet busy with locals and the odd UK hen party. You could tell they were Brits cos they had 3L cartons with them. We can’t go anywhere!!!!!!!!!!!!

Made a dash for St Jean de Luz which was a bit of an unknown mistake. There was a Basque festival on so all the town centre roads were blocked off. But eventually managed to get a space FAR away. The Basques were wearing red bandanas round their necks. Lots of partying going on with bands and choirs in town. I liked it. Because of the festival had a bit of a problem getting into a campsite but eventually managed more towards Bairritz. Still hot.

Well I actually managed to climb the Dune du Pilat this morning. It’s a million steps up to the top which stop about 20m from the top. Then it’s hands and knees to the top. Fantastic views over to Cap Ferret. That’s something that many have wanted to do. That’s me walking up the dune.

Headed down the coast to a small town called Biscarosse to have a look round. The market was on so it’s prawns for dinner tonight. Then down to Miamizan and had a look at the lake where there was a magnificent walk round the lake through a planted flower garden. Beautiful. Well worth a stop over.

Down to the lake for a stop over in an aires by the lake. Lots going on. Canoes,pedalboards etc. and a few hotels and restaurants open. Biarritz in the morning!!!!!